Wednesday 23 September 2009

Walking the Limestone Way


Last week I decided on a whim to walk the Limestone Way, north - south, on my own.
I planned to complete the walk in 4 days which would be an average of 11.5 miles per day. As I have never walked for more than a day before this was quite a challenge for me. I was unsure whether I would be able to maintain the pace, stand the loneliness or even get an evening meal.

I contacted the Matlock tourist information office who kindly sent me the guide book, even though it costs 80p, the lady asked me to drop the money in next time I was in the area. How is that for trust and decency might I add.

The Limestone way runs from Castleton, starting beneath Peveril castle, the castle of Ivanhoe fame, and finishes in Rocester in Staffordshire. I can understand why the walk starts in Castleton, after all this is the heart of limestone country, but for the life of me I cannot see why the walk finishes in Rocester. And, let me say, finishes in a location as remote from limestone as it is from the countryside, but more of that later.

Day 1

Castleton - Flagg


Castleton Market Square

The guide book says this is 12.2 miles in distance but I covered 18.75 due to my own detours to see places of interest, well interest to me anyway!!

Set off from the cross in the market square in Castleton as this has a nice symmetry for the end. After taking the photos and searching out mars bars and a packet of crisps from the shop back on the main road I ventured to the start. This is to be found at the entrance of Cave Dale. The dale itself was quiet mid week, but the usual flotsam and jetsam was evidence of the previous weekends day trippers. The dale itself is an easy stroll up to the top with only very tame or confident sheep for company. Stopping at the top gave wonderful views of Peveril castle and the Hope Valley behind. Across some old mine workings, something which was to become a feature of the walk, and bagging the trig point, you cross a road and head towards Peak Forest. There is no forest here so don't go looking for one, but there is a lot of heavy traffic so be careful crossing the busy A623, then along a metalled road until you reach a track on the right that takes you down to the beautiful Hay Dale. A nature reserve, full of wild flowers, even at this time of year, the dale is quiet and has a gift of solitude. Sit for a while and enjoy what nature has to offer. Another detour to bag another trig at Whetton then onto Peter Dale. Almost immediately you are aware that this dale is a completely different proposition to Hay Dale. In wet weather, this dale must be pure hell. The ground having been mashed by the cattle that inhabit the dale, their feet producing deep cylindrical depressions, just like a pie mold and in to this pie mold they have deposited what cows are famous for. Desperate Dan would be at home here, but not your boots. If you have gaiters, put them on, you will need them. Care and persistence are the watch words and with patience, you can traverse this quagmire. Two thirds of the way down you come out into an open area and look back with relief at the land you have just conquered. But you are too hasty. Along the dale you will have noticed sheep high on the cliff side, watching you, tracking your every movement. They are spies, for the cattle. As soon as some poor naive sap thinks he is free, he turns a corner and there they are. All the cattle have congregated in front of the exit stile and as you approach individual cows emit a torrent of green...... Well, you get the picture. The only way to deal with them is to shout and wave your walking stick, wildly above your head. This produces a parting of the way and the exit is clear for a brief moment.


Two new found friends who helped me eat my lunch.

Be on guard walking through the farmyard towards the bottom of the footpath that leads you to the A6. The collie dog is not for sharing his space and makes it very clear you are to move on and fast.

You exit on to the road and walk up hill to reach a lane that takes you to Millers Dale. Be careful here, because the path brings you out onto the A6, a dangerous road at anytime. You have to walk several hundred yards to your right along the A6 to reach a lane on your left that takes you up and away from the dale. Take extreme care on the A6, the road is fast and winding and has heavy traffic. The aim is to get to Flagg, not the hospital.

Over fields and stiles the trail eventually brings you to Flagg. I stayed at the farm right beside the trail just outside Flagg. I was greeted with a cup of tea and chocolate cake, a nice shower and clean bed, what more could I want. Evening meal perhaps, but no such luck, unless you want to walk in to Monyash, which I didn't. I met a couple, at the B&B who were members of the Disabled Ramblers Club. I never knew such a thing existed, but the lady had the most remarkable all terrain wheel chair with which she could practically go anywhere. The group was to be aided on a walk by the local PD Rangers who arrange walks all over the UK for the group.

Day 2

Flagg - Bonsall

This is 13.1 miles of varied walking over field mainly, pleasant enough, with some fine views.

Bradford Dale

After what can only be described as one of the best breakfasts I have ever had, I set of for Monyash. A pretty village with a nice pub and cafe. The mornings walk leads over fields to eventually drop to Bradford Dale. This is pure England. The England of trout streams and clear water and stone bridges and the sense of being in the past. Take your time walking through the dale, it is worth it. Sit and watch trout maneuver to catch the food passing by, watch the dragonflies skim across the water and the dippers zipping here and there. It is beautiful.

The trail eventually brings you out at the bottom of the dale and you cross the road to start to climb up to the brow you can see on the horizon. Take care here as the signposts are sparse, so use map and compass to ensure you are on the right path. It is an interesting section, with stone circles, hermits caves and strange rock formations. Take your time and enjoy the scenery, it will soon end!!! The section between Elton and Bonsall, is a slog. over rubble strewn land, stiles and rutted paths. Eventually it brings you to Bonsall, but most people will carry on for a night out on the town in Matlock. I did and it was a night of two halves. The trail ejects right in to the middle of the town, near to the park and an Ice cream van. Have a 99, with flake and sit in the park and enjoy the flowers. Whilst there, take a look in the tourist information centre, lovely people, now 80p the better off. The least said about the accommodation the better, suffice to say, avoid anything with the word, "school", in the title. Ditto for the breakfast.

Day 3

Bonsall - Thorpe


This is a lovely days walk of 11.5 miles over pasture, past rock escarpments and through some of the loveliest villages in the White Peak.
The stretch from Bonsall to Parwich takes you through isolated villages often medieval in origin and full of interesting things to see. Including the 12 apostles, 12 water troughs side by side, the last on having a lid for human consumption. A medieval farmstead, still working with the best stone pig styes I have ever seen and to the left a grotto to the mother Mary and Christ. Strange things indeed to see in a farmyard, but isn't that one of the reasons we walk.

Continue on towards Parwich and stop for lunch at the pub. This also has a shop which is pretty unique and a good idea. The church is well worth a visit especially the inside.

Tissington Church

Carry one across fields and the Tissington Trail to reach the village of Tissington itself. The trail brings you through the church yard of Tissington Church. Spend sometime looking inside if only to cool off in the midday sun. It is a short walk then over fields to Thorpe where the more adventurous or healthy or stupid, depending upon your point of view can climb the conical hill at the foot of the dale. I didn't. But I did continue on to Ilam and then on up the manifold Valley to Throwley Hall. It is sometime since I have visited this part of the world, but I was blessed by the great walker himself and rewarded with a walk up a lonely valley in the evening sun, all reds and yellows and warmth. Walking really is worth it. Throwley Hall put on tea and scones a big bedroom and a bathroom. How about that a bath to lay in and not a shower to hurry out of, pure luxury.

Day 4

Thorpe to Rocester

Length of walk 9.2 miles.

The early part of the morning is spent walking by the river Dove and then up and over the hills to pasture land. It is a pleasant walk, again meeting a busy road, the A52, so care has to be taken. You have left Derbyshire and the Peak District National Park and are now guests of Staffordshire County Council and the local land owners. It shows. Stiles are covered in holly bushes, broken or in such a state of dis-repair they are dangerous to mount, one actually collapsed as I climbed over it. Way marks and posts are either none existent, hidden in hedgerows or have been removed. The use of map and compass is paramount here. There are numerous signs telling the walker to take alternative routes, all hand written and giving directions to none existing field exits. In short you feel unwanted and unloved here. After walking through fields you eventually pick up the river Dove again and will probably see fly fisherman in the river, if you stop and talk they will most likely ask if you want to have a go, they did me. How lucky can a man get?

Eventually the giant JCB plant comes into view and a new ring road system. The trail avoids this and leads you through fields to bring you to the end of you quest in a council estate on the outskirts of this small town. A church yard a little way along, brings a natural end to this trail.

Rocester Church


So there you have it my first Long Distance Footpath. What have I learned. Well, pack well and lightly. What you think you need is not necessarily what you are going to use. Clothes are invaluable, but other things could be left behind. Stick to the route. I eventually walked 62 miles because I went off the route to look at other things. This is OK if you have the time, but on a schedule can add unnecessary pressures. Plan the route well and always take the maps, compass and GPS. Also plan well in advance so that accommodation can be booked in the places nearest the stops. I walked at least 10 miles extra because I had left it late to book B&B and so had to search out far away places. Take your time, add days to the walk rather than miles. Much better to walk 10 miles and enjoy what is around you than walk 18 miles and have to scoot along. Baths are good, better than showers. Walking for me meant food was not such an issue, I don't know why this is, but a good breakfast set me up for the day, then snacks and plenty of water kept me going.


As for the Limestone Way, it is a beautiful walk through some of the finest Peak District scenery, but it could be made much better. The road sections, particularly the A6 could and should be removed and replaced with a new route. These are not attractive parts, but more importantly they are dangerous and extreme care has to be taken.


The route also misses out some wonderful villages and I cannot for the life of me work out why this is. Winster, Youlgreave, Taddington are all bypassed and Ilam is never reached. This removes a very important aspect of the area and denies the trail walkers the experience of these archetypal villages.


The most important failings of the trail in my mind is the finish point. The start is in Castleton, in a limestone gorge, under a Norman castle deep in Limestone country. The very essence of the Limestone Way. The end finishes in a council estate bordering an industrial complex in an area that clearly does not cater for walkers. The better end would be Ilam country park. A beautiful national trust property, with a youth hostel, picture postcard village and the birthplace of angling on the river dove. This is without doubt where the Limestone Way should end.


Having said all of the above, I did enjoy my time and will make further forays into the Long Distance Footpath world. The trail showed me parts of the Peak district I have never seen and will re-visit. As a first LDFP it is a good introduction and a newcomer, like me, can get the feel of walking unaided for consecutive days alone.


For me I prefer to walk these walks alone, I then have only me to worry about and cater for. All in all I had a good time and if anyone wants the GPS file they are quite welcome to it.


If you have got this far I am impressed and have to thank you for your patience and kindness.


Take care.